5 Best Hangboards for Finger Training


Hangboard is the best way to keep your fingers strong when you cannot get to the gym (or build your own). There are many ways to hangboard, but most generally, climbers do high repetitions of short duration hangs on different holds, adding weight as needed. Incorporating hangboarding into your bouldering or sport climbing training regimen is the most straightforward way to improve max crimp strength and ensure you get an even burn on each finger. If you are a trad or lead climber, using hangboards for training one-arm hangs is a great way to prevent fatigue while placing gear and clipping draws.

Beastmaker 2000

Best for sloper training and sustainability. The Beastmaker 2000 is one of the most popular and positively reviewed hangboards. Used by pros like Nina Williams and Alex Honnold, every Beastmaker 2000 is forged from a single block of FSC certified North American tulipwood. Also, the company builds them using electricity generated from 100% renewable resources! The board has a wide variety of pockets, as well as 45, 25, and 20-degree slopers. Also, because the Beastmaker 2000 is so popular, it will be easy to find training programs for this hangboard.


Metolius Simulator 3D

Best for beginners and the least expensive option. The Metolius Simulator 3D features a decent variety of crimps, slopers, and jugs that are great for pull-ups. Although, the grippy texture on the Simulator can be rough on your skin and makes it easy to hang on the slopers. It is an excellent option if you are buying your first hangboard, but there is only one pair of tiny crimps on this board, so choose another one from this list if you are an advanced climber looking for a challenge.


Transgression Board

Best for simplicity and backed by science. Created by climber and coach Eva López, who wrote her Ph.D. thesis on finger strength training, the Transgression board is unique and simple. According to her research, you do not need to train on different types of holds to improve finger strength. Instead, she suggests climbers train different grip types (open-hand-crimp, half-crimp, and full-crimp) on ledges of varying depth. Thus, the transgression board features flat edges from 6 to 24 mm. It is a perfect hangboard for keeping things simple and making it easy to track progress.


TRANGO Rock Prodigy

Best for pinch training and hold variety. The TRANGO Rock Prodigy has many hold types and is the only one with on our list with options for pinch grips. The holds on the Rock Prodigy feel more comfortable than those on other plastic hangboards, and some pockets feature ridges that feel great between your fingers. Another unique feature of this hangboard is that the main crimps get thinner as your hands move away from the center of the board. This TRANGO hangboard is probably the best for climbers that want a lot of options. It also comes in two separate pieces so you can set it up to match the width of your shoulders.


Mammut Diamond Fingerboard

Highest quality but most expensive. The Mammut Diamond Fingerboard was designed in and developed in collaboration with Jakob Schubert and Ingo Filzwieser, who are both athletes on Mammut's professional climbing team. Made of walnut, the Diamond Fingerboard features a wide variety of crimps and a few slopers. It sets itself apart from the other fingerboards on this list in style and the fact that it comes with an attachment that can hold your phone. The Diamond hangboard has a very smooth finish and flat jugs at the top for training pull-ups. If you have the money and expect to continue fingerboarding throughout your life as a climber (which you should), the Mammut Diamond is a good investment.


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