Ropegun Pro Tips for Bouldering Training

Overview

We ask our favorite pros how they approach training for bouldering, and what advice they would give to new and intermediate climbers. Here is what they said:

Eric Jerome

"I often see climbers training their cores by doing miserable long sessions of exercises like sit-ups, leg-lifts, Russian twists. Unfortunately, these "easy" movements don't really translate to hard bouldering that requires maximum strength for a very short period of time. Rather than doing high-rep low-intensity, try the opposite. Front lever progressions, ab-wheel, TRX, and dragon flags are good examples. Keep the session short, the form good, and as with any strength training - don't go until you burnout. You can achieve the same results by adding weight to any of the "easy" exercises." - Eric Jerome

@eric.jerome

Daisuke Ichimiya

"Everybody needs to just have fun. I think having fun makes you strong. Don't forget this!!" - Diasuke Ichimiya

@daisukeichimiya

Clément Lechaptois

"I am a passionate rock climber and mostly about bouldering. I always try to improve all my abilities as a climber. No matter the style, no matter the holds, no matter the kind of rock, etc. All I want is to be the most versatile as possible, and when I find a weakness it got me even more psyched to train and become strong where I'm weak. Usually I try to work on my weaknesses on easy movements while warming up to understand the feelings, and step by step the exercises become harder and harder until I feel that I can do hard moves where I was weak before. This is how I train." - Clément Lechaptois

@clem_lechap

Chelsea

"I love working with women so much because most of the advice put out there is tested on men and given by men! Women are a whole different creature and should be treated as such! Hormones can be used as our superpowers instead of looked at as a handicap, as long as the lady knows how to use it to their advantage!" - Chelsea

@ladybeta.coaching

Noah Newkirk

"Follow the Psych!!! Enjoying the hell out of your training/climbing is the best way to improve! Running through the same daily routine half-heartedly has always resulted in plateaus for myself. If you feel hesitant to go to the gym or outdoors, then you should take the time to reflect on why you actually enjoy climbing and then alter your routine to better pursue what makes you happy!" - Noah Newkirk

@noahsends

Marine Thevenet

"2 Tips for training in the climbing gym (when you can't go outside to climb during the week): In the gym I try to do the beta intended by the routesetter even if it is not the easiest beta for me. Since I'm not tall (OK.. since I'm short), most of the time I can crimp a foot or use a dynamic movement to skip a dyno. But I prefer to try hard on the intended beta to keep improving my level.. And, when I'm sick and tired of falling, I do the boulder with the easiest beta for me and... I keep trying in the routesetter's intended beta ;) Since I don't have too much time during the week to train, I try to complete some exercises (during 20/30 minutes) at the end of each climbing session such as some abs, no foot, gullich, dynos. To choose my exercises, I try to focus on my weaknesses. I know it's better to do exercises in the middle of a sesession (when you are not very tired), but I prefer to enjoy a good climbing session with friends instead of stopping to do some exercises alone." - Marine Thevenet

@bould_herman

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